Unable to compete, many famous bakeries of Hyderabad disappear into history

HYDERABAD: I'm sure that when a Hyderabadi thinks of visiting a famous bakery in the city, they only think of Karachi Bakery, Pista House, Niloufer, Shuban Bakery, etc.

However, Gen-Z will not be aware of these old, well-known bakeries in Hyderabad, which are currently fighting for survival against the competition from popular bakeries that use modern technology, an industrial scale production, and expensive labour.

Hyderabad's culture historians and foodies recall that the old mohallah and colonial areas of the city were home to hundreds of tiny and large bakeries. Sadly, many of these have failed and gone extinct, and some are still contending with the fierce competition from the well-established bakers.

 PIC Credits: Haseeb Jafferi/Sufi Trails

Pink cream buns, Kheema patties, Chocolate Plum Cake, Egg Puffs, Tie Biscuits, Osmania, Chand Biscuit, Nan Qatai, Dum-ke-Roat, Dil Kush, Dil Pasand, Chand biscuit, cream rolls, Sheermal bun, french bun, coconut cookies,Malai bun, soft pastries, Dinner rolls, Khara biscuits, Osmania biscuits are just a few of the well-known treats that Hyderabadis grew up enjoying.

 For locals of Lakdikapul, Goodluck bakery and Garden Bakery were the go-to places.

Many Hyderabadis recall the Goodluck bakery from their childhood, when they used to eat fresh plum cakes and puffs while sitting beneath the tree. The garden was modern and had cold pastry and other treats. Good luck was demolished during road widening, and now the famous Rayalaseema Ruchulu stands at the end of the Lakdikapul bridge. Even while Garden Bakery survived, Golden Bakery did not, according to Dr. Haseeb Jafferi, Cultural Curator of Sufi Trails from Hyderabad.

Bombay Cafe & Bakery was operating in a heritage structure. However, due to road widening, it was moved back at least 10-15 feet. So the majority of the hotel and bakery are gone, and they are now functioning out of the hotel's kitchen. It was originally famous for its Irani Tea and early morning Luckmi and Kabab, recalls Ahmed Askander, a Hyderabadi who now lives inLondon.

The 40-year-old Ahmed Askander's childhood favourites include the Chocolate Plum Cake, Egg Puffs, Tie Biscuit, Osmania and Chand Biscuit, and Nan Qatai.

Picture Credits: Ahmed Askander/Tie Biscuits

Aksander recalls, "Actually, when I was in primary school, I used to ride in the school's rickshaw, which was pulled by rickshaw driver Baalayya. The rickshaw was like a cage, and on the way to school, I used to pass by a family friend's bakery, where my parents would deposit money each month so I could buy whatever I wanted. And Balayya used to stop the rickshaw at that bakery every day on the way to school, and I used to buy whatever I wanted there before going to the school."

"In addition to heritage bakeries, a modern bakery was established in the 1980s by a businesswoman in Secunderabad underneath the 10 Downing Street Pub. She used to bake the best bread ever made in the twin cities, which is still unmatched by any bread made today, and her loaves were much larger than the typical loaves of bread that are sold. Additionally, it was called Universal Bakers. I'm not sure if the lady still does it, and the oven was a large, modern one that ran on electricity and gas, not on wood or charcoal. Customers could watch her handling the machine and baking simply," recalled Ahmed Askander.

According to Haseeb Jafferi, cultural curator at Sufi Trails, King and Cardinal bakery in Himayathnagar was another legendary bakery that served as a popular hangout for junior college students in the 1990s and early 2000s, but sadly it was shut down after the first lockdown.

Not to mention the legendary Niloufer Cafe and Bakery near Niloufer Hospital, which has now been modernised, operates branches, and has diversified its business model. Because of their diverse business approach, even Generation Z is aware of Niloufer bakery, which is well-known for its Irani chai and Osmania biscuit.

Hyderabadis also recall eating snacks sold at Secunderabad's Golden Bakery, which is adjacent to the Ganesh Temple on Station Road. They were renowned for their salty biscuits and Bun Double Roti. When someone was sick, they would always buy bread from this bakery as there were no bakeries in the neighbourhood at that time say Hyderabadis.

Across the railway crossing gate lies the Bolakhi Bakery, which was the only large bakery in Khairtabad in the early 1950s. The bakery offered a wide variety of biscuits, including exquisite curry puffs, and pastries. It is now a small one hidden behind the Metro rail pillars. The top management has just changed. "But these days, I make it a point to stop there whenever I pass that way. I remember the taste of the ginger cookies they served there," a Hyderabadi recalls.

There is one Shah Minar Bakery, a regular little local bakers nestled inside the deep alleys and bulane of Subhanpura, which is struggling to survive says Dr Haseeb

Naseeman bakery located inside first Lancer area exist since 1960s-1970s which is famous for chai, Lukhmi, sugar-spotted khajoor, Alu Samosa. It is a few of the oldest bakeries in Hyderabad.

 Picture Credits: Haseeb Jafferi/Sufi Trails

Some of the old bakeries Hyderabadis loved have since closed, including Percy's in Secunderabad, Rock Castle in Banjara Hills, and Universal Bakery in Secunderabad.

Every neighbourhood in Hyderabad, according to locals, is known for its bakery and café. They would often serve as a landmark for that area. Therefore, one calls them to a bakery or cafe if they need to meet up in Hyderabad.

However, many prominent bakeries in Hyderabad have shut down, as have many modest curbside bakeries. All we see now are famous names.